Four basic ingredients are necessary for the production of beer.
- Water: It makes up about 95% of the composition of beer, and therefore affects its quality. The composition of water varies from one geographical region to another, making the water of each country or region more suitable for producing certain types of beer. However, we can use any clean, potable water to make any type of beer.
- Malt: Barley malt is the most common in brewing, but in certain types of beer, such as Weiss, wheat malt is used, as well as other cereals. Malt provides the wort with the necessary fermentable sugars for alcohol production and at the same time largely determines the flavor and color of the beer.
- Hops: Hops are grown in cold climates and their flower is used in brewing to give bitterness, flavor and aroma to beer, but also as a natural preservative thanks to its antibiotic properties.
- Yeast: It is the microorganism responsible for the alcoholic fermentation of beer. It consumes the sugars in the wort and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide, thus converting the wort into beer. The two main categories of yeast are ale, which ferments on the surface of the wort at temperatures of 18-23°C, and lager, which ferments on the bottom of the wort at temperatures of 6-12°C. The type of yeast and the fermentation temperature determine, in most cases, the category of beer that will be produced (ale or lager).
The necessary equipment
Before we briefly explain how to make beer at home (and in general), here you will see what equipment you need depending on the method you will follow.
With ready-made kits With extracts Traditional (all grain / Brew in A Bag)
The stages of production
Brewing begins with the process of mashing. In this stage, the malt, after being crushed, is immersed in hot water to produce fermentable sugars, at the same time giving flavor and color to the water, which is now called wort. In the next stage, the malt is removed and the wort is boiled with the addition of hops, which will give the wort the desired bitterness, as well as its characteristic aromas. After the wort has cooled, it is transferred to containers, where the fermentation process will follow. Fermentation is done by adding yeast, which consumes the sugars contained in the wort and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. When fermentation is complete, carbonation and bottling of the beer follow.
Home brewing
We can start the brewing process from scratch and adjust all the parameters ourselves at each stage of brewing. However, we can also follow easier, less demanding methods, purchasing ready-made brewing kits (beerkits) or extracts (extracts). The choice of the method that suits each brewer depends on the equipment and space available, the time and money he wants to dedicate to the hobby, the knowledge and experience he has acquired and above all the result he wants to achieve. Home brewing methods can be divided into three main categories:
Brewing with a ready-made kit
We can start the brewing process from scratch and adjust all the parameters ourselves at each stage of brewing. However, we can also follow easier, less demanding methods, purchasing ready-made brewing kits (beerkits) or extracts (extracts). The choice of the method that suits each brewer depends on the equipment and space available, the time and money he wants to dedicate to the hobby, the knowledge and experience he has acquired and above all the result he wants to achieve. Home brewing methods can be divided into three main categories:
Brewing with extracts
With this method, the brewer uses malt extract, which is wort that has been saccharified and concentrated into a thick syrup. The brewing process in this case begins with the boiling of the malt extract with the addition of hops. The advantage of this method over ready-made kits is the variety of extracts, hops and recipes that the brewer now has at his disposal, thus having the ability to determine the characteristics of his beer and create his recipe as he wants.
All-grain brewing
In this method we start with the raw materials, without any prior brewing stage. This time the brewer does not use a ready-made extract, but carries out the saccharification process using malts of his choice. This method gives the brewer absolute control, since he can now adjust all the details and parameters that will give him the final result exactly as he imagines.
Cleaning and disinfection
Careful cleaning and proper disinfection of equipment are the most important factors that will ensure a successful batch without contamination or unwanted flavors and aromas.
Cleaning is considered to be the washing of the equipment and the removal of dust or residues from previous use, while disinfection is considered to be the removal of the largest percentage of bacteria and microorganisms that can harm and spoil the beer. It is not necessary to sterilize the equipment, only disinfection, which will reduce the risk of contamination to safe levels for the beer.
A good general rule is to thoroughly clean all the equipment we will use and sterilize everything that will come into contact with the cold wort after boiling, such as the fermentation vessel, air trap, pipes, funnels, and anything else we use to store or transfer the wort.
For general cleaning, we ideally use a specialized product, usually an alkaline cleaner with a high pH. However, we can also use a common dishwashing detergent, provided that it is odorless, as scented soaps can leave unwanted odors on the equipment and consequently on the beer. For disinfection of the equipment, we should use an effective and safe disinfectant with an acidic character (low pH) shortly before use.
Vocabulary
Sanitation: The reduction of microorganisms to negligible levels.
Sterilization: The elimination of all microorganisms by chemical or physical means.
Wort: The solution of malt and water that is boiled before fermentation. Before boiling it is called “sweet wort”, while after boiling with hops it is called “bitter wort”.
Fermentation: The conversion of fermentable sugars in malt into beer.
Trub: The sediment at the bottom of the fermentation vessel, consisting of residues of the raw materials and fermentation.
Hops: A plant grown in cold climates and whose fruit is used in brewing.
Racking: The careful transfer of the must from the fermentation vessel to a new container or bottling medium.
Gravity: Describes the sugar content of the must.
Ale: Beer that has been fermented with ale yeast.
Lager: Beer that has been fermented with bottom-fermented yeast.
ABBREVIATIONS AND UNITS OF MEASUREMENT
ABV (Alcohol By Volume): The percentage of alcohol by volume. This is the most common unit of alcohol measurement, and is also found as “alc/vol”.
ABW (Alcohol By Weight): The percentage alcohol content by weight.
DME (Dry Malt Extract): Dry malt extract in powder form. Also known as “spraymalt”.
FG (Final Gravity): The final density of the must, after the fermentation process is complete.
IBU (International Bittering/Bitterness Units): The international unit of measurement for hop bitterness. One IBU is defined as one milligram of isomerized alpha-acids per liter of beer.
LME (Liquid Malt Extract): Liquid malt extract, concentrated in a thick form.
OG (Original Gravity): The initial density of the wort, before the fermentation process begins.
Frequently asked questions
What equipment and how much space do I need to brew beer at home?
he absolutely necessary equipment consists of a fermentation tank with a capacity of 18-30 liters with a lid, a tap and an air trap, a ladle to stir the wort, a bottling valve to fill bottles and a stopper to close them. The 30 liter fermentation tank has dimensions of approximately 35x35cm, the remaining components fit inside the tank and all together can be stored in a small cupboard.
What ingredients will I need for a batch of beer and how many liters can I make?
The easiest brewing method is the beerkit. It consists of a can of ready-made concentrated wort for the production of about 20 liters of beer, and a sachet of yeast. All you will need is about a kilo of dextrose (alternatively dry malt extract, ready-made enhancer or plain brown sugar).
What is the cost to purchase basic equipment and ingredients for my first beer?
With a total cost of approximately 35 euros, we can purchase the absolutely necessary equipment and materials to make our first batch. By purchasing the complete basic equipment, which also contains essential components that will facilitate the brewing process, the cost will not exceed 70 euros including the materials.
If I start today, how long will it take for my beer to be ready to drink?
The average time it takes to start drinking your beer is 2 to 4 weeks. Fermentation takes about 5 to 10 days, and after bottling, it will take at least another week for carbonation to occur. Depending on the type of beer and its alcohol content, aging for even several weeks in the bottle can dramatically improve the characteristics of the beer.
How good is the result?
Even the simplest and most economical beerkit will give a much better result than the well-known commercial beers that are widely distributed in the Greek market. All homemade beers have a taste and aroma. Entering more advanced brewing methods than the beerkit, namely with extracts or all grain, there is really no limit to the quality that a handmade beer can reach. With the right recipe and technique, one can make beer at home that is better than even the world’s leading breweries.
I can’t find the malt my recipe calls for, why?
Each company that produces malt for commercial reasons names each of its products with its own name. This means that two malts that are the same or very close in characteristics may have different names. This usually happens with special malts such as caramel or crystal. If you know the characteristics of the malt you want (e.g. caramel with a color of 30EBC) you can easily understand and match them with any other company’s corresponding characteristics. In case you have difficulty, do not hesitate to contact us
he absolutely necessary equipment consists of a fermentation tank with a capacity of 18-30 liters with a lid, a tap and an air trap, a ladle to stir the wort, a bottling valve to fill bottles and a stopper to close them. The 30 liter fermentation tank has dimensions of approximately 35x35cm, the remaining components fit inside the tank and all together can be stored in a small cupboard.
The easiest brewing method is the beerkit. It consists of a can of ready-made concentrated wort for the production of about 20 liters of beer, and a sachet of yeast. All you will need is about a kilo of dextrose (alternatively dry malt extract, ready-made enhancer or plain brown sugar).
With a total cost of approximately 35 euros, we can purchase the absolutely necessary equipment and materials to make our first batch. By purchasing the complete basic equipment, which also contains essential components that will facilitate the brewing process, the cost will not exceed 70 euros including the materials.
The average time it takes to start drinking your beer is 2 to 4 weeks. Fermentation takes about 5 to 10 days, and after bottling, it will take at least another week for carbonation to occur. Depending on the type of beer and its alcohol content, aging for even several weeks in the bottle can dramatically improve the characteristics of the beer.
Even the simplest and most economical beerkit will give a much better result than the well-known commercial beers that are widely distributed in the Greek market. All homemade beers have a taste and aroma. Entering more advanced brewing methods than the beerkit, namely with extracts or all grain, there is really no limit to the quality that a handmade beer can reach. With the right recipe and technique, one can make beer at home that is better than even the world’s leading breweries.
Each company that produces malt for commercial reasons names each of its products with its own name. This means that two malts that are the same or very close in characteristics may have different names. This usually happens with special malts such as caramel or crystal. If you know the characteristics of the malt you want (e.g. caramel with a color of 30EBC) you can easily understand and match them with any other company’s corresponding characteristics. In case you have difficulty, do not hesitate to contact us